|
||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
What happened in the past year
Another question was the soil. We knew the ground was wet and the soil very mucky. We had the soil tested and found a deep layer of peat, water at one foot below the surface, and marl at about 35 feet. We would need deep pilings to support the structure. Also, a below-grade foundation is not ideal. We are planning to have the house about 18 inches above grade.
In March we started working on the plans, trying a number of layouts before settling on T-shape with a sunroom on the southeast side for the ground floor, and an L shape for the second floor. We hope that with a large south and east exposure of glass and excellent insulation that passive solar will do most of the heating in winter. We will put solar hot water on the roof and that should also help with the heat distribution, when integrated with a radiant floor heat system.
By the end of July the plans were finished (slowed down a bit by my traveling out of the country), and we had an engineer design the foundations. The contractor then began to price the house and we were able to meet in November and decided to aim to begin construction in February. Since we work in Chicago and cannot get away reliably in winter (very dependent on road conditions) we had to move out between Christmas and Jan 4th.
So today, we have most of our furniture in storage and have just a few essentials left so we can hang on for a few more days and watch the chickadees, goldfinches, titmice and such eat up the last of the seed (don't want to put that in storage and host a family of mice).
Turtle's Hope Construction Blog
The story began about a year ago, when I contacted Eric Hughes, a green designer in Grand Rapids Michigan. He and his builder partner, Adam Bearup, came out to view the existing cottage and a cold but sunny winter day. At that point my hope was to keep the same footprint, but tear down the slab portion of the structure, beef up the insulation of the part that is above grade, and improve the layout of the part that is on a slab at grade. That plan was quickly scotched by the county, as with more than half torn down, the whole structure would have to follow code. The above ground wing is way too close to the lake for that. It would have to be a complete rebuild.
Completed Pictures for a 1930's Vintage Kitchen
All qualified kitchen and bathroom renovations we do include design services from our in-house professional designer. See samples of specs below!
To see more kitchens we've done, click HERE to go to Kitchens under the Project Photos section.
'Tis the Season to Keep Our Local Business Community Alive and Well
This past weekend, we stopped over at two of our favorite art galleries, Schroeder Studio Gallery and Copperwood Artware Gallery in Old Towne Orange.
Schroeder Studio Gallery is tucked in a few steps east from Glassell, on
Copperwood Artware Gallery is about a block north of the Old Town Orange circle, at 148A N. Glassell,
Online Forum for Vintage Home Enthusiasts
1940's Cottage Kitchen Makeover
We just gave this cute 1940's era cottage kitchen a facelift by:
1. Refacing the existing cabinetry with a fresh coat of bright white paint.
2. Installing a new white subway tile backsplash with gray ribbon tile trim.
3. Installing a new wall-mounted sink faucet and all new cabinet knobs and pulls.
4. Building a custom cabinet to extend the cabinetry all the way to the end of the kitchen (the cabinet was made to look exactly like the existing cabinets) and installing a custom-fitted butcher block countertop for this cabinet.
5. Painting the walls in a gorgeous shade of ocean blue.
6. Upgrading and adding electrical outlets to allow for more countertop appliances.
Where to Spend and Save on Your Kitchen Renovation
An upcoming kitchen renovation is no doubt a daunting task. Not only is it going to be a large expenditure, you will also have to deal with the stress of choosing from so many different options, ideas and products out there.
Hiring a good designer and general contractor will definitely help guide you in the right direction. However, keep in mind you will still have to make choices to help them understand what your vision is and to help them achieve your desired goals.
As a general contractor and serial renovators ourselves, we have worked on lots of kitchens. Over the years, we have come across the same problem ourselves and for our clients on what you really should spend more of your budget on and where you can cut back on.
So, here’s what we’ve put together to help you during the planning stages of your upcoming kitchen renovation:
Spend More
- Upgrade Plumbing and Electrical
- Faucets and Appliances
- Flooring
- Kitchen Cabinets
Spend Less
- Light Fixtures
- Kitchen Accessories and Knobs and Pulls
- Countertop
- Sink
Spend MORE: Flooring: Take the time to really identify what you want (tile, wood, laminate, linoleum, etc.) and assess whether it will hold up to your anticipated traffic levels in the kitchen. Regardless of what type you choose, spend more to get a better quality and more durable flooring product that will hold up to the traffic. You don’t want something cheap that will crack, fray or warp within a few years time.
Spend MORE: Kitchen Cabinets: This is where you really get what you pay for. It’s not so much on the actual finish or style of the cabinets, but the quality of the cabinet construction. Spend more for sturdy wood cabinets with solid wood doors, dove-tail drawers and strong plywood shelves. We have installed a number of cabinets that had an inferior construction grade (i.e. nailed drawers, melamine shelving, etc.), and within months after installation, the cabinet shelving started to sag from the weight of plates, the door panels started to shift downwards, and the “skin” of the cabinets started to fade from sun exposure through kitchen windows.
Spend LESS: Light Fixtures: There are so many light fixtures out there, from really affordable to really high-end expensive. However, there is no reason to spend thousands on a light fixture (unless of course you really love it!) when you can get a similar one for just a few hundred dollars only. All new ones are wired for safety and work pretty much the same way. Besides, if you decide to change up your style in a few years, it won’t break the bank to replace it with something else.
Spend LESS: Kitchen Accessories and Knobs and Pulls: This is where the cabinet makers and sellers get you (in terms of cost). Skip the fancy Lazy Susan, pull-out bins and organizers, knobs and pulls, etc. They charge you an arm and a leg for it when you can simply buy it yourself in a woodworkers’ shop or through an online cabinet makers catalog. You can either install it yourself or have a handyman install it. You’ll be surprised that it will cost you only a fraction of what it would have been if you purchased it with the cabinets.
Spend LESS: Countertop: We don’t mean spend less on a countertop by going with tile or Formica instead of natural stone or some other material. If you decide to go with granite, for example, there is no need to spend a premium on a type of granite from
Spend LESS: Sink: A sink is a sink, whether you pay $150 for a dual basin white porcelain one from Home Depot or $900 or more for a similar sink through a high-end designer store. If a heavy pot falls on it, it will most likely crack both. It’s the same thing with a stainless steel sink. It will scratch the same whether you spent $200 for it or $1200 for it.
To see samples of Good Home Construction's previous and current projects, click HERE.
1930's Bathroom with White Subway Tile and Black Trim
BEFORE Pictures
We closed off this door that was located on the other side of the bathroom
AFTER PICTURES with Classic White Subway Tile and Black Trim, and Hex Tile Floor
The wall where the other bathroom door was closed off (looks like it was never there!)
The view into the bathroom with the other door closed off.
To see more bathrooms we've done, click HERE to see Bathrooms under the Project Photos section.